The Vegetarian Grazer: Maroosh Gives Vegetarians First-Class Treatment

by Sarah Phelps sarah@miamidish.net

My family is composed of an eclectic mix of vegetarians, vegans, and meat-eaters, an arrangement that usually turns the pleasure of eating out into a daunting and interminable quest. When we choose a predominantly vegetarian restaurant, my mother turns up her nose at any and all soy-based products; when we settle somewhere with a more “mainstream” menu, my sister, my brother, and I are demoted to second-class citizens, ordering either salads or variations of pasta marinara. One region of culinary territory that offers rewards for all weary travelers, however, is Mediterranean fare, and one of the best and most adventurous places to get it is at Maroosh, an exotic establishment located on Valencia Avenue in Coral Gables.

The Moorish-style building, subdued lighting, red drapery, ornate chandeliers, and Middle-Eastern tapestries create a fanciful, enchanting atmosphere, but despite the website’s assertion that it’s an “ideal setting” for a “romantic dinner for two,” it really didn’t seem like the best place for a private meal on the weekend. The festive Arabic music made it somewhat of a challenge to engage in sustained conversation, and an energetic belly dancer circled the room at different times throughout the meal – not as a passive form of entertainment, but an interactive experience. While Maroosh may not provide a quiet dinner, it will definitely provide a stimulating environment: two middle-aged female diners jumped up to shimmy in dangling coined belts, and a young girl got up from her large table to imitate our entertainer in a dance for her clapping family.

Even more significant than the restaurant’s ambiance is the chef’s ability to stimulate the palate. My party of four had to wait twenty-five minutes to be seated, but it was well worth the wait. Once at our table, we immediately selected a bottle of Willamette Valley Vineyards Pinot Noir, ordered the appetizer combo – five of our choice – and discovered what my expert-hummus-making, former chef sister praised as “the best hummus” she’d had at any restaurant “ever.” It was smooth, lemony, and not completely overpowered by garlic as we frequently find to be the case. We decided after two bites that regardless of the quality of the rest of the food, this treat alone was worth a return visit. The other appetizers were also quite impressive. I repeatedly topped my pita with shanklish, a zesty mixture of feta cheese, chopped tomatoes, and onions seasoned with oregano and red pepper, and we all fought over both the falafel and my second favorite menu item: the foul medamas, a delicious blend of fava beans, lemon juice, garlic, tomatoes, and olive oil. Due to some miscommunication on our part, we accidentally received the meat-filled grape leaves, but once we brought this to the attention of our waiter, he immediately delivered a fresh plate of the vegetarian alternative to our table.

After indulging ourselves shamelessly over appetizers, we barely had room for a “main” course. My sister and I ironically wimped out and still ordered our standard salads, but hers was much better than mine; the fatoush, with its bread crumbs and sumac dressing, was a hit, while my Greek salad was quite forgettable. I still remember the taste of my brother-in-law’s entrée, however. He opted for a full main course and ordered what I’ll save room for next time: an intensely flavorful vegetable curry without the density normally found in Indian and Thai curries. Although my husband was less enthusiastic about his Mediterranean fish filet and said that next time he’d rather try the lemon chicken with artichokes, it’s worth mentioning that a non-vegetarian in another party loved his chicken and lamb kababs.

Could my days of endless searching be over? With such a wide variety of chicken, beef, and lamb items on the menu, from the basic New York strip steak to sauteed lamb kafta, this seems like a good place to my take my non-vegetarian relatives and friends. More importantly, I can say with certainty that dinner at Maroosh means I do not have to sacrifice taste for my company. I’m definitely marking this restaurant on my culinary map and heading back for the hummus, foul medamas, and vegetarian curry. Maybe I’ll even take my mom and a jingling belly-dancing belt. Wonder if she’ll wear it…

Type: Mediterranean, with an emphasis on Middle-Eastern

Address: 233 Valencia Ave. Coral Gables, FL 33134

Phone: 305-476-9800

Hours: Tues.-Thurs. 11:30 am to 10 pm, Fri.-Sat. 11:30 am to 11:30 pm, Sun. 12 pm to 10 pm, closed Mondays

Website: www.maroosh.com

Ambience: festive and exotic

Average Price: Dinner entrees range from $16 - $26;

Lunch specials, served from 12:00-5:00, range from $7 - $10